Thursday, August 16, 2007

We're Heeeerree!















The view of the Sawtooths in Stanley, ID

Actually, we've been here. some of us have even left here already. the rest of us are just lazy bloggers as it turns out. either way, after a whopping 4500 miles of wet woods, rolling hills, endless prairie, granitic domes, gaping valleys, long downhills and even longer uphills, all four pf us made it to the pacific ocean to dip our bodies in the chilly waters.

after the deserts of Idaho, the brigade shot north, deep into the sawtooth mountains and kissed the edge of Idaho's vast Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness. we rolled out of the mountains along the Payette river and flowed across the snake into eastern Oregon where we were met again by dry prairie, rolling mountains, and the kindness of strangers. we shed a salty tear when we crossed the last pass of our trip, thankfully entering the moist forest of the cascades, an environment we had not seen since at least Minnesota. out of the hills we came once more into the bosom of Eugene to waiting friends and a beer store/bar with 938 selections to quench our tired thirst, and then on again until we ran right up against the mighty pacific.
















Tom, taking in the salty Pacific outside Florence

a day and a half up the coast with a stiff seasonal headwind was plenty for this brigade, trying to absorb the scenery of that beautiful coast and avoid being run off the narrow roads by the weekend warriors out to enjoy the same place as us. when we got into Portland, item number one on our list was to bake a blackberry pie with as many himalayan blackberries as we could get our grubby little hands on, and then hop downtown to oggle the sweet singies and fixies locked so elegantly to the curb. we could only imagine how hip their owners had to be to have assembled such dope rides.















Tom, proudly displaying his cargo after being
spontaneously hired to transport human organs
for transplant across state lines to Oregon.

it was here in Portland that the brigade officially disbanded. Kylie and her giant box labelled "ferdinand sculpture: part II left-right piece" (which actually contained her entire life), were dumped in a heap in the check-in for continental airlines at 3:45 in the morning to catch a flight back to Cleveland for some paperwork and bodily maintenance before continuing on back to school to complete her studies in animal altruism and dinosaurs, with a minor in oatmeal smacking and grapefruit slurping. From The terminal, the fractured brigade headed north to give Brigadier Biggs a head start to olympia, and his lady in waiting.
















Kylie, reviewing the local zoning laws
in eastern Oregon.


After a few days of depression, lonliness, and phantom pains from the loss of a brigade, the three remaining members were reunited in a lovely craftsman home in a quiet Wallingford neighborhood in north Seattle. sadly, though, this has lasted only until now, as Brigadier Hughes has left us already, headed east to Glacier National Park via train where he will pedal his own pile of rags and wires solo-style through the park, and then continue his steel-railed journey eastward to his homeland of Connecticut.














Casey, gorging himself on Oregon's most delicious invasive...

Brigadier Gish will continue on as a yet another shiftless Wilson Alum as he makes his way down the west coast and eventually to the burning man festival on the scorched playa of Nevada. perhaps someday he will finally make his way back to the fertile eastern shore of Maryland where his loyal wench waits on the dock, darning the socks of wayward sailors.

Brigadier Biggs will soon devalue his entire journey to the fullest extent possible by flying all the way to the other coast of the continent, at night no less. here he will gather his sundries, visit with family and friends, attend the wedding of Allison Shannon and David Lier, spend some time on the flatwater of the northeast, and then begin anew, heading back west again to settle in the Seattle area for a time, working for a tree company, making friends, and living as well as he possibly can.

and so it is with great sadness, and enthusiastic anticipation, that this chapter in all the brigadier's lives comes to a final close. we have seen beauty and death, farms and forests, mountains and valleys along the road from hither to tither. we met the most wonderful people imaginable, and some that were less than enjoyable. we have laughed more than any person should be allowed to, and dwelled on frustrations for hours on end while pushing down an endless white line. we have seen, heard, felt, smelled, and touched so much in the last 2.5 months, but seem to have so little now to show for it. though we do still have the dwindling callouses and (slowly) fading tan lines to remind us of the things we have learned, and the lessons to be remembered. i think that most important to remember, though, is that the Lightweight Touring Brigade was not a group of people on a trip across the country. the brigade was a way of life for a time- not a trip but a kind of living that holds so much learning and experience both for the individual and for the group. it was just how we were.

Lighweight Touring Brigade 2007















The brigade takes a breather at an overcast
lake, deep in the Idaho mountains



















Soaking in a hot spring high on the banks
of the Payette river

















The Brigade and friend Colby Spends a
night in a flophouse in Bend


















The Last of the Mountains as they
poured us out onto the ocean...

















The Brigade, victorious on the Oregon sands















The Brigade coat of arms, represented here on a napkin from a Starbucks outside of Portland featuring a depiction of our country, coffee, a picnic shelter, and a bicycle, all centered around the likeness of none other than our dear John Dunbar (not Dumb Bear... DUN-BAR)

Thursday, August 2, 2007

No, but seriously....

So, along the way of this silly little journey of ours, we've met so many incredible people that have attempted to break down our cynical, hard-sided demeanors and adopt a more content, loving-view of the world. In other words....on this trip we've discovered that there are a surprising number of open, generous, amazing people that really just want to help us out however they can. I was taught once that, in terms of animal behavior, altruism doesn't really exist, so I suppose that means that there is really no explaination for why all these people would be so willing togive of themselves and be so friendly....but that sort of just makes us want to thank them all the more.
Everything from the simple well-wishes of "Good luck! Be safe" to the elaborate, holy-crap-is-this-really-happening-right-now steak dinner provided by, we've all agreed, two of the most incredible, inspiring people we've met (Glen and Leslie in Idaho)...it all means so much to us. And it's been so awesome hearing people tell their stories and offer us advice, and it all kind of makes us fall in love with human nature. Shoot, I'm floored...
Anyway, everything from directions to free showers, so many people have been rediculously helpful and generous, and we honestly can't thank them enough, especially through this pitiful little blog entry. Maybe if we use a bigger font: Thanks so much, friends!

Monday, July 23, 2007

Swallowed by the sands

While you've been licking ice cream off your fingertips the brigade has been riding through scorching southern Idaho! After climbing out of painfully trendy Jackson Hole over equally painful10 % grade Teton Pass (10% grade means it takes 10 calories to go one foot uphill) we dropped down into the semi-desert Snake River plain.
It turns out we aren't the only ones on a hedonistic flight of fancy this summer. In fact, for the past 16 million years or so, the same hotspot that created Yellowstone has been on an extended road trip, trying to find itself by vaporizing southern Idaho and leaving behind a southwest to northeast path of scorching lava field. This is a land where rivers turn to gulches and smiles turn to frowns.
This is a scorched land, except for the lush park in Idaho Falls where the brigade spent the night. Why so lush is a question we forgot to ask, but we found out repeatedly at 1, 2,4 and 5 AM when we were soaked by the park's sprinklers. The next day we faced our longest stretch without anything yet-60 miles through the ominous Idaho National Laboratory-site of the world's first atomic powered town (Arco), as well as the first town to be taken over by radioactive zombies (scheduled for early 2008).
The next day we rode through Craters of the Moon National Momument, which is a huge, above ground, Hawaii-like lava flow. We stopped at the visitor center, but the mere thought of riding the loop through the park made our ice cream cones melt, so we soildered on towards the mountains and the hope of a tree. Will we survive? Will Kevin buy us a fountain drink at the next gas station? (Pleeeease Keveee!) Stay tuned. And enjoy your ice cream!















A nomad invites us under his earthmover for midday tea and dates
















Idaho National Laboratory. Do not leave pavement. Do not stop pedaling.















Beneath this Departement of Energy butte captured aliens labor endlessly building Happy Meal Toys















Casey and Tom chillin' on some A'a at Craters of the Moon

Friday, July 20, 2007

Hot Spring Hijinx!








One of the brigades favorite parts of this trip has been stopping in towns and talking to friendly locals who want to know about our journey. We usually get a lot of the same questions "Where did you start?", "How many miles do you travel in one day?", "In this heat? Are you a moron?", and the old classic "Why is that dirty faced man digging through my garbage?". To our suprise, a town yokel droped a new query onto the team's ears, "How do you unwind from the tough daily grind of a jobless and fancy free summer lacking any sort of responsibility except for bike riding, soda drinking, and sight seeing?" We pondered this notion for a few minutes and than responded by describing our recent experiences with the hot springs of the wild west.

Our first true "experience" dealing with hot springs was from a "wondering soul" in the U.P of Michigan. This was a man on a road trip by himself, you know just travelin' around, doing some soul searching, not all that wonder are lost... needless to say this lose canon of a 40 year old advised us of a hot spring in far off Wyoming. To the brigade's suprise we actually made it to the Republic of Wyoming and beyond that, survived camper and tatonka (buffalo) filled Yellowstone to arrive in the nether region just outside the Teton national park. Here, deep in bruin country, lied a sulfur filled bubbly awaiting a grungy team of bikers to taint its pure magma heated springs. This pool was a sight to be seen and was throughly enjoyed by the brigade, refreshing them for the ride ahead.

The second hot spring on this trip was tipped off to the group by a certain moped bound babe in the arid deserts of Idaho. She spoke of a hill side gurgler high in the Sawtooth mountains, a hot spring maintained by skinny dippers for skinny dippers. When we neared the region this hot springs was to be located by Kevin (footnote: the smart, gentle, poingant, beautiful Kevin that started this trip has been replaced by a lumbering, robotic giant, known for smashing holes in the earth's crust and pulling telephone poles out of the ground) after he was given the order "find steam"- and that he did! Pulling off at mile marker &% on L@&man Highway just outside of B&*ks, Id#!o (sorry, moped babe swore she would hunt down and kill all exisiting brigades if this secret escaped our lips) we found a multi-tiered hotspring consisting of an elobrate system of pipes and dams. This is what dreams are made of! Enough of the jibber jabber, I will let the pictures do the explaining.













You know, Kevin, it only takes the ingestion of one heat-loving amoeba to cause fatal meningitis.














The brigade in search of "Bare country"


The engineering marvel that is Skinny-Dip hot spring, just down the road from !*&^%, right next to the !!#$%.

Ogallala Gala

Of the four members of the brigade, one of them was lucky enough to have come from a line of blood far enough west do do them all some good after crossing the Mississippi. after avoiding U.S. Calvary in the black hills, still on their search for the elusive Sioux warrior formerly known as John Dunbar, the Brigade hitched a ride in a secret-service surplus black suburban, piloted by the infamous Captain Silverstache (formally known as Melvin) to the tiny plains oasis of Ogallala to set up their gypsy camp beside the road for a few days.

Here, the Brigade was able to refuel on potato salad, sloppy joes, roast beef, pancakes, Sausage, and fat tire ale. they were able to replenish their rubber chicken supply , as well as entertain themselves with real, live gunfights in the cowboy capital of nebraska. they mingled with noblemen and countless countesses, as well as young squires accompanying their guardians, as the gala rolled on into the evening. the brigade cleaned and shaved and rejuvinated their bodies and spirits with great company and raucous laughter.

the next day, cheese, Imported overseas from the colony of Wisconsinland was sampled along with selections from the local vineyards, while the decibel level of guests gradually became higher and higher, until it was subdued with pulled beef sandwiches and even more delicious potato salad.

the brigade extends its warmest thanks to their hosts for the weekend, Kenneth and Doris, for without their hospitality and kindness, we might still be lost among the hills of South Dakota, sweltering in the heat, slowly coming closer to the fate of the great mammoths of the area.

i think it's safe to say that a glorious time was had by all, and it was a sad moment when the brigade finally had to bid adieu to the gaggle of gala goers come weekend's end.
















Captain Silverstache Relaxes after a long voyage across the rough seas of the midwest.

















Rocket Fuel being prepared for intake.




Freshly shaven Brigadier Biggs sips a frosty
adult beverage while socializing at the Gala





Refreshments abound... many thanks to Kenneth and Doris!!

The Bar that calls Itself a Town.


A town?, a bar?, a house?, a home.




After a late lunch and a rediculous amount of coffee (noticing a trend yet?), the four little hoodlums headed down some lonesome highway with the goal of a little dot on the map, and the hopes that that little dot would provide, at the very least, a place to 1) get water and 2) sleep without being bothered or otherwise kicked-out.
Well...the very least was pleasantly surpassed. We biked the 30 miles or whatever it was (who cares, really? Tom sure doesn't...) into the setting sun--here on out referred to as "magic hour", even if it lasts more than the alloted hour--making for a beautiful ride through cowboy-country.
Upon arriving at the evening's destination, we found that the little dot on the map was just a single, lonesome bar--and yet, it turned out to be so very much more....

We walked in, really only expecting to get our water bottles filled and some advice on where to camp for the night. There were maybe 7 people in the bar (the entire population of this little "town" we're assuming) and who the actual owner was didn't become clear until much later. The folks took turns going behind the bar and fulfilling our wishes. There was one man, we'll call him Jerome*, dressed in black jeans and a de-sleeved Sturgis t-shirt...which we all know means either "You better get on my good side or watch your ass"--or--"Let's party!!" Turns out it was the latter. The evening unfolded as such:
There was this little rope to pull that sounded a horn, and everytime someone pulled it, free beer appeared out of nowhere...put on someone else's bill (but whose?). .. As the horn continued to sound, the evening turned into a blur of Pearl Jam songs on the jukebox, Casey courting a local, the group learning the ways of ranching and the cattle market, two little dogs running amok (named Sadie and Shithead...at least that's what we were told), stories about nothing significant, Party-Boy Jerome's crazy antics and the realization that he was indeed the owner of the bar, then, eventually, the "closing" of the bar after Owner Jerome had gone to sleep by someone else who put himself in charge.
The four bikers were told they could sleep in a pop-up camper...still hooked up to a truck...behind the bar, for which they were more than grateful. They were awoken the next morning by a gunshot, fired by Jerome specifically to get the lazy kids up and out of bed...because had preparred a breakfast of eggs, pancakes, sausage, and coffee. It was more than we asked for-and considering we never really asked for it-we were floored by the generosity of this little bar that calls itself a town.
Anyway, as this blog entry (how dorky does that phrase sound?) is being written...it is hard for us to believe that this actually ever happened. But it did, which is even crazier. And the next morning (after the big ol' breakfast) we just got on our bikes and kept riding westward, like nothing had ever happened...and yet, with the warm feeling of, not only pancakes and coffee, but also of new-found friendships and the realization that we had just stumbled upon the coolest place in Wyoming and/or the United States.

*This name may or may not have been changed, as Kylie had promised a guy named William** that she would keep the Bar/Town a secret less it "were to turn into another Colorado"

**This name also may or may not have been changed

New found friends and... lovers... smooze with the brigade in Spotted Horse, WY

Yellowstone: An impending cataclysm with some dangerous animals thrown in


Yellowstone in a nutshell



Pvt. Hughes
Lightweight Touring Brigade
Fort Jackson, Wyoming
24 April, 1878

Dearest blogosphere,

I'm sorry I haven't written in such a long time, but Frank from Casper has been hogging the Wyoming State Computer for the last three days, bidding on Ebay items. He's finally done, so I thought I'd use my time to tell you about a wonderous mountain paradise the brigade has found. We think we'll call it "Yellowstone", on account of the sulphourous rocks we find around us everyday.
Against all odds, the chemical reactions in our fragile, eggshell-like bodies carried us all the way across Wyoming to the gates of this wonderland. You can imagine our frustration, then, as we were charged 48 dollars, two dollars less than a loaded tourbus, to enter the park, while the RV next to us was only charged 25. We tried arguing with the native manning the booth, but he couldn't be budged. The tribe who rules the park are costumed in olive-drab outfits with wide-brimmed hats. I tried asking them questions about the geologic history of this place, but the only phrases they seem to know in english are "There's a coke machine that way" and "Old faithful erupts in twenty-five minutes". I was, however, able to find a book about Yellowstone's geology in one of their lodges. This is what I discovered:

Yellowstone today is a craterlike valley surrounded by a ring of mountains. In the past though, it was simply a single mountain range. Then, hundred of thousands of years ago, a huge magma chamber beneath the mounains erupted, covering America with ash and leveling the range to a crater like depression. To this day, the valley still rises and falls due to the magma pressure below, and the many geysers and bubling hotsprings are a reminder that at any minute thousands of American and their RV'S could be carried away on a sea of lava and ash. Additionally, this same reputable book (Oxford University press) claimed that due to the fact that the rock under yellowstone is liquid, gravity here is thirty percent weaker than normal. Biggs and I got into an argument over this claim. He reasoned that if this was indeed fact, then his jokes would be thirty percent funnier, which they weren't, so I was convinced. We later agreed that 30 percent was a misprint of 3.0 percent, interesting nontheless.

An outfit from the eastern states called Xanterra Lodging (a Halliburton company) has a monopoly on camping in yellowstone. If you would believe their brochures, Yellowstone is supposedly crawling with so-called "Grizzly Bears", who will "maul you to death" or "rip your scalp off with a single swipe of their huge paws" unless you stay in Xantera's exorbinantly priced campgrounds. We'll, the brigade knows bullshit when we hear it, so we simply avoided paying for a campsite (again, higher for bikers than a loaded RV) and snuck into the woods. We covered our bodies in a thick layer of bacon grease (formerly known as Kevin's mustache gell) to mask our human scent, and hid all our food in the bottom of Kylie's sleeping bag where the so-called "bears" wouldn't be able to see the "Nutrition Facts" labels. To make a long story short, we spent two blisfully bruin-free nights under the stars, one of them within spray distance of Old faithful, well satisfied we had foiled the Robber-barons behind Xanterra.

Apparently, though, during our last night the lodge staff noticed our slime trails leading between our elicit campsite, the courtesy guest-only coffee station, and the employees-only shower. The next morning, the park service dumped several tons of rocksalt on us, hoping to dry out our mucous membranes, ending our worm-like free loading. Quatermaster Biggs, Kylie and I escaped unharmed. Casey, however, shriveled like a prune, and had to be rehydrated with several hundred ounces of coffee before we could continue on.

But along with all the hardship came great rewards, including geysers, waterfalls, mudpots, paintpots, fumaroles, prismatic springs, waterfalls, bison and elk. This truly is a wonderous place. Attatched are some color etchings I've made of the park that I trust you will enjoy.

Until next time my sweet,
Tom















A deluge of cool








Grand Prismatic Spring. Sort of like taking a shower, I guess...

A mighty stream is parted